Powtown: Is Calgary the Biggest (and Best) Ski Town in Canada?

It may be a bustling city on the prairies but Calgary’s proximity to world class skiing and snowboarding makes it a contender for the ski town crown.
The wide expanse of the Rocky Mountains fills my vision through the bug-encrusted windshield as the steel-and-glass towers of the Calgary skyline quickly disappear in my rearview mirror. All around me, the road is buzzing with dirty black SUV’s and flashy sedans with Thule boxes. It’s a typical January morning on Highway 22X; a cavalcade of passionate skiers skipping work and school in order to sample the delicious (and massive) menu of skiing that Calgary offers. From the Olympic-funded C.O.P located on the northern edge of the city to the plethora of resorts battling it out within a four-hour drive, the ski and snowboard scene in Canada’s fastest growing city is thriving to say the least.

Upon arrival at any of the Calgary-accessed resorts, one finds a bustling scene of skiers and snowboarders enjoying the bounty of the biggest and best mountain range in Canada and, arguably, North America. It’s the perfect breeding ground for young skiers and riders, something that is becoming increasingly harder in an industry choking on rising pass prices and real estate fixations. While other ski resort towns focus on high-priced lifestyles that exclude many, Calgary has managed to keep the sport of skiing and snowboarding growing with small hills like Nakiska and C.O.P nurturing the roots of the sport and larger players catering to the masses. It’s an environment ripe for growth, and talent.

Rory Bushfield, Dwayne Weibe, Dustin Craven, Chris Rubens, TJ Schneider; just a few of the professional skiers and snowboarders that come from the Calgary area and now grace the pages of magazines and travel the world filming and competing. In this industry, pro athletes may be forced to move to Whistler for business/networking reasons, but for every pro that eventually uproots to the west coast, another two or three seem to emerge from the cities endless pool of talented riders. From sponsored athletes to families with little rippers, Cowtown’s scene is a hotbed of passionate people making powder turns.

So, why does Calgary deserve the title of best ski town in Canada? It’s simple; choice. A dedicated skier with a full tank of gas and a free weekend can watch the snow reports of a dozen different resorts, cat-ski and heli-ski operations and be guaranteed good snow somewhere. “The season is really long and it’s consistent. We don’t get rain and you’re always guaranteed snow. It’s just a matter of how much.” Says Steve Saranchuk, owner of Calgary’s hub for the new generation of Calgarian skiers, Fresh ski shop located in Kensington. That consistency is what allows skiers and riders the flexibility they are spoiled with from November to April. Whether it’s the deep tree skiing of the Kootenays or the alpine peaks of the Banff/Canmore area, there is always a viable option for the willing traveler. Add in an active population whose residents work hard and play even harder and you’re looking at a recipe for fun. “The percentage of people in Calgary who ski or ride is really high compared to other cities like Vancouver or Edmonton, or even Denver. ” adds Saranchuk “There’s a lot of active people who live here and like to spend time in the mountains. Why would you go elsewhere when the best skiing is in your backyard?” Indeed, why would you?

Dave Treadway, deep in Rocky Mountain pow.

Canada Olympic Park – Located on the northwest reaches of the city, C.O.P probably deserves a lot of credit for putting Calgary on the map, for a few reasons. One, it was a venue for some of the 1988 Winter Olympic games. And two, it has produced a wealth of talented professional athletes who grew up in Calgary and used it’s close proximity and well-maintained terrain park to refine their riding. With only four runs it’s not a mountain per se but a perfectly manicured terrain park right in a city, what more can you ask for?

Sunshine Village – A familiar favourite amongst Calgary residents, Sunshine is renowned for it’s natural snow and burly terrain. Not to fear though, there is plenty of beginner and intermediate terrain so the whole family can enjoy. But when the kids tire and Mom and Dad want to shred the tough stuff the options are unlimited; the most notable being Delerium Dive. The Dive is a restricted-access inbounds area that may as well be out-of-bounds. Access is only granted to those with partners and avalanche safety equipment. Don’t be fooled, this is the real deal and you can get into trouble here if you’re not prepared. But for those in search of challenges will find more than they can handle.

Lake Louise – Probably the second most iconic resort in Canada, the Lake is huge and offers something for absolutely everyone. Freestyle, powder, racing, groomers, beautiful views, a national park location and a legacy unmatched, it’s a must visit for every skier in Canada, let alone Calgary. One of the biggest bonuses of Louise is its super long season. Almost every winter they manage to get open first and often close last. For the skier or snowboarder who still craves turns while others are dusting off the golf clubs Louise fills a need. Just remember to bring your rock skis/board if you hit it early. Tip: Lake Louise is a massive resort with many option but if you want powder check out the backside. It generally gets more snow than the front.

Fernie Alpine Resort – An extra hour of driving for an extra meter of snow? Sounds like a decent trade to me. While Fernie may be a little bit further than Banff/Canmore corridor, it makes up for it with an entirely different ski experience. Fabled for it’s legendary dumps, F.A.R is a dream destination when it has new snow and a solid choice at any time. The huge bowls that comprise the resort are flanked with steep trees and cliffs for the adventurous. The best way to discover Fernie, as with any place, is to befriend a local and get them to show you the stashes, if you can keep up. Skiers here are notorious powderhounds and, while they’re willing to share, they won’t slow down so you can catch your breath. Start training now.

Ross Janzen, Fernie Alpine Resort B.C.

Powder Cowboy Catskiing – This jewel is hidden an hours drive past Fernie, tucked behind the imposing Lizard range and receiving the same bountiful snow pack. The lodge is a western-themed rustic palace located on the Bull River Guest Ranch. The food is amazing, the lodging cozy and quaint and the atmosphere impossibly friendly. But who cares, right? It’s about the skiing and PowCow has it all; bowls, chutes, wide-open powder runs, trees. Plus, it’s all cat-accessed so it’s only you and 27 other people on the hill at any one time. That’s 6000 acres of paradise waiting for you. Do yourself a favour and splurge for some western-themed luxury. Y’all understand me?

Island Lake Lodge Catskiing – Where Powder Cowboy steps off, Island Lake Lodge pulls in and dominates. While Powcow is a rustic, homey outfit, the prestigious ILL caters to those who want a little more comfort for a lot more money. The product, however, remains the same; the deep, light Rocky Mountain powder and wide-open bowl skiing that the Elk Valley has become famous for. The cuisine is straight up gourmet and massage therapists wait to rub out the many knots you acquire logging vertical in heaven. ILL became famous in the 90’s when a slew of snowboard and ski film companies made the operation a de facto film studio; seemingly recording every turn and cliff at the area in every classic video you’ve ever seen. Hey, if it’s good enough for Terje Haakonsen and Seth Morrison, it’s good enough for us.

Kicking Horse Mountain Resort – Four hours to the west on Highway 1 is the resource-based town of Golden. One of the most valuable resources harvested there is the massive amount of vertical metres of skiing one can pound out in a day. KHMR is a big resort with tons of steep lines and fun features to launchyourself off (or watch others launch off.)  If you have the legs, KHMR has the turns, and then some. With a litany of inbounds accessible chutes daredevils will be more than satisfied with the options available. Those who wish to play it safer can have a glass of wine and some fine dining fare at the Eagle’s Eye restaurant located at the very top of the gondola. Keep your eyes peeled and you might catch sight of locals ripping the chutes on the huge mountain face to the left of the restaurant. Leave it to the professionals and enjoy the wine.

Castle Mountain – The jewel in Alberta’s crown, Castle Mountain is an overlooked resort located in the southwest corner of the province near Pincher Creek. Known for it’s steep runs and fantastic views, Castle is the place to go for those in the know. Educated ski bums watch the snow forecast like surfers study swell and catching Castle on a pow day is like scoring perfect waves in Hawaii, except much colder. When it does hit, leave early from Calgary and be aware of the treacherous access road, don’t rush it or you’ll end like all the other tourists in the ditch. When you do get on hill, head straight for The Chutes, a collection of open slopes with steep, deep, luscious turns. Lap these until they are tracked out and then start mining the trees on the skier’s left boundary line. If you get lost, don’t worry, when it’s a good day at Castle you can’t go wrong. Now shhhh, don’t tell anyone.

Nakiska – Another resort designed and built for the ’88 Olympics, Nakiska was the race venue and it shows. A host of steep, perfectly groomed corduroy awaits those who like their turns fast and few. You can open it up on any number of spots at Nakiska and enjoy the rush of speed that other resorts just are suited for. For people who need jumps and rails to keep them happy Nakiska operates two terrain parks, yet another option for nearby park sessions. The access road can be tricky so make sure you’ve had your mocha before attempting it. With a drive clocking in at just under an hour, this is an obvious choice for morning sessions before class or afternoons spent skipping out of the office. Hey, it’s a sick day well spent, right?

Marmot Basin – Four hours from Calgary in Jasper National park lies Marmot Basin, the Rockies resort known for being a tourist-free version of Banff. Beautiful views are as common as fresh tracks here, and that’s saying a lot. Marmot gets an average snowfall of 400cm annually and that means good times for the few people who make the trip there. Unlike most resorts, untouched snow can be found long after a storm; look for it in the trees of Eagle East if you need to find stashes. With 1675 acres of terrain and a low influx of skiers you can feel safe making the drive, knowing that you’ll get the goods. Make sure you hit up Pete’s Club for a big night of apres celebration. Just remember not to dance like a tourist.

Canadian Mountain Holidays Heli-skiing – It’s the holy grail of the mountain riding community, a heli-ski trip. Imagine if you will, luxury dining and accommodation complete with hot tubs, expensive wine you can’t pronounce and the thrill of flying over majestic mountains in a helicopter with your friends. Sounds good doesn’t it? And I didn’t even mention the skiing; fresh, untracked runs in every direction and effortless rides right to the top in a mechanical bird stocked with snacks. CMH has 12 locations sprinkled throughout Alberta and B.C. and shuttles run of Banff and Calgary to whisk you away to the dream ski trip you’ve always imagined. Start saving though, most trips cost upwards of $4000. That’s a lot of day passes, pal.